20 superb UK walks – for families, day-trippers and long-distance ramblers
UK DAY WALKS
Mourne mountains, Northern Ireland
Distance 10.9 miles
Start/finish Trassey Track car park
Refreshment Meelmore Lodge
“I have seen landscapes, notably in the Mourne Mountains and southwards which, under a particular light, made me feel that at any moment a giant might raise his head over the next ridge.” So wrote CS Lewis of this mountainous patch of his homeland. Adventure abounds on this demanding walk, which encompasses three of the highest peaks in the Mournes: Slieve Donard, Commedagh and Bearnagh. The summit of the second offers fine panoramic views of the High Mournes, while the choppy straights of the Irish Sea can be seen from the third. You can follow in smugglers’ footsteps, too, along the infamous Brandy Pad track. So busy was this clandestine trading route in days past that half the houses in the village of Hilltown were said to be pubs. Sláinte, Prince Caspian.
walkni.com
Kerry Ridgeway, Welsh Borders
Distance 15 miles
Start/finish Cider House Farm to Bishop’s Castle
Refreshment Six Bells Inn
In centuries past, farmers from across Wales would entrust their sheep, cattle and even geese to delivery agents or drovers, who would transport them on foot to the market towns of England. Many of those flocks and herds would have passed this way towards their fateful end. That said, if you had to choose anywhere for a final stroll through the British countryside, you’d be hard pushed to choose better than this delightful ridgeline walk. On a clear day, the views spread out for 70 miles or more, from Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons in Wales over to the Shropshire hills across the border. A popular bridle track as well, the ridgeway path leads from Powys (Wales) into Shropshire (England) and regularly alternates between moorland, woodland and heath. A successful red-kite breeding and protection programme nearby means you’re almost guaranteed to spot one of these fork-tailed predators. The 775 bus runs from Bishop’s Castle to Newtown, close(ish) to the start.
tourism.powys.gov.uk
Tramway Trail, Cornwall
Length of Journey: 11 Miles
Commencing and Culminating Points: Portreath to Devoran
Place for Food and Drink: The Old Quay Inn
In the onset of the 19th century, the mining boom in Cornwall brought drastic changes to the tranquil seaside settlements of Portreath and Devoran, turning them into active trade harbors. Spreading 11 miles throughout the western peninsula, this route retraces the course of two initial horse-operated tramways, which were once used to transport tin and copper. These tram paths are part of a larger interconnected system of similar transportation conduits now collectively acknowledged as Cultural Routes by the European Council. This sea-to-sea trek is a favorite among bicycle riders and walkers alike, with informational plaques anchored to granite boulders scattered throughout, offering glimpses into Cornwall's mining heritage. The overall visual experience is one that effortlessly transitions between bleak, barren mining landscapes to the soft tranquility of forests and open grassy areas. Upon completing the journey, travelers can avail the 46 bus service to return to Portreath.
westcountrywalks.com
Leeds and Liverpool Canal, Yorkshire
Distance 16.5 miles
Start/finish Skipton to Saltaire
Refreshment Lord Rodney
Measuring 127 miles and containing 91 locks, the Leeds and Liverpool canal is the longest watercourse of its kind in northern England. Reminders of the area’s industrial past are evident in the old factories and mills that cluster along the canal’s banks. The best known of these awaits in Saltaire, home to the huge textile mill of Victorian philanthropist Titus Salt. Now a designated Unesco world heritage site, the beautifully restored Salts Mill is home to a gallery dedicated to David Hockney. On the outskirts of Keighley, you’ll be treated to another masterwork: the Bingley Five-Rise and Three-Rise Locks. Truly inspired engineering, the lower gate of each chamber connects to the upper gate of the chamber below, creating the impression of an aquatic staircase. So audacious was this design that 30,000 people turned up to the inauguration in 1774. Trains run regularly between Saltaire and Skipton.
canalrivertrust.org.uk
Burns Trail, Ayrshire
Length of the Journey: A 12.5-mile stride
Starting/Concluding Point: Alloway
Spot for a Short Break: Brig o’ Doon
In the words of Robert Burns, "The hills of the Highlands forever remain my favourite, no matter where I travel or wander." A sacred spot for the Scottish, Alloway is the birthplace of this celebrated writer and is a part of the historic country town of Ayr. Minutes away from the hustle-bustle, you find yourself amidst open lands. A crucial sight to catch before setting off into the wilderness is the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum. Your adventure commences on a mixed terrain of rural roads and pathways, winding around the Newark Castle estates before hiking into the Carrick hills. When the sky is clear, the Firth of Clyde appears absolutely magnificent from this spot, as if gleaming in the cheerful sun. You wrap up this expedition along the shoreline, reaching Alloway by the Burns monument close to Brig o’ Doon. This old Doon Bridge is famously recalled in the Tam O’Shanter poem.
St Cuthbert’s Way, Northumberland
Distance 18 miles
Start/finish Wooler to Holy Island
Refreshment The White Swan
This long but comparatively easy walk affords fine views and handsome scenery, but its real appeal lies in its connections to the seventh-century bishop and pilgrim St Cuthbert. After dropping down to the Till river (English tributary of the river Tweed) from Wooler, the route travels through rolling arable fields until it reaches St Cuthbert’s Cave, a natural sandstone feature where St Cuthbert’s dead yet itinerant body is said to have briefly lain. Soon afterwards, you’re out on top of Greensheen hill, enjoying fine views of the North Sea coast. To the south lie Bamburgh Castle and the Farne Islands, but it’s to Lindisfarne (also known as Holy Island) in the north-east that the path leads. An important centre of Celtic Christianity, Lindisfarne is teeming with wildlife, as well as religious history. Be mindful of the tides as the “island” is accessible via a causeway, which disappears during high tide. To return, take the bus from Beal to Wooler.
stcuthbertsway.net
Seven Sisters, East Sussex
Trail Length: 13.8 miles
Starting and Ending Points: Seaford to Eastbourne
Place to Eat: The Birling Gap Tea Room
This majestic coastal walk takes you along the edge of awe-inspiring chalk cliffs, whose stark white colour resembles pure alabaster. The highlight of this journey is the Seven Sisters, a series of rolling peaks located between Cuckmere Haven and Birling Gap, boasting unique and imaginative names such as Rough Brow and Brass Point. There are parts of the route that will take you all the way to the water's edge, an ideal opportunity for a swim if the weather permits. Another notable spot along the South Downs Way is Beachy Head. Standing at 162m, it is the UK's highest chalk cliff though its notorious reputation for suicides is unfortunate. Segments of this cliff regularly fall into the sea due to natural erosion, posing a continuous risk along the trail, always be cautious and avoid straying too close to the edge. Convenient transport links, including trains via Lewes and several buses, cater to the journey between start and end points.
Learn More at southdownsway.co.uk
Walberswick nature reserve, Suffolk
Length of the route: 10 miles
Commencement and culmination: Southwold
Place for break and refuel:The Ship
Spring brings an exciting burst of life to the Walberswick National Nature Reserve, making it an ideal time for a visit. Nestled on the Suffolk coast, the reserve buzzes with birdlife, from godwits and avocets to wigeons and pintails, creating a paradise for birdwatchers. The landscape that surrounds the reserve: reed beds, estuarine marshes, saline lagoons, and shingle beaches, is a sight to behold. Embark on a scenic round trip from the quaint Southwold village, journeying through the natural reserve, down through a burgeoning forest, to reach the picturesque village of Dunwich. As you make your return trip along the coastal mudflats and sand dunes, consider hopping onto the ferry at Walberswick to cross the river Blyth (available every day from June to September).
To discover the walking route in detail, visit ifootpath.com. The region is known for its diverse bird species, making it a haven for avifauna enthusiasts and researchers of ornithology. Furthermore, the sandy coastline boasts some of the most breathtaking sunsets in the United Kingdom - a perfect ending to your day of rambling.
Falls of Glomach, Ross-shire
Distance 11 miles
Start/finish Morvich
Refreshment Kintail Lodge At 114 metres, the Falls of Glomach boast the single biggest drop of any waterfalls in the UK. Despite their gravity-gushing, depth-charging descent, however, they are curiously easy to miss – a phenomenon that has led some to call them the “hidden” falls. This disappearing act is partly because of their position: up a narrow gorge in a remote corner of the Scottish highlands. The cascade’s own spray contributes to the concealment, enveloping the whole scene in a damp veil of mist and mystery. Start and finish at the Forestry car park near Morvich (Citilink buses from Glasgow and Inverness stop at Allt a’chruinn, two miles away). After a short climb through the forest, you’ll emerge above the tree line into wild highland scenery. Although the track is well-marked, the weather is notoriously fickle here, so pack for all weathers.
walkhighlands.co.uk
Roman Way, Cotswolds
Distance 11.5 miles
Start/finish Coln St Aldwyns to Cirencester
Refreshment Crown of Crucis
An early section of the little-known Roman Way walk, this walk offers an archaeologically intriguing ramble through the heart of the Cotswold hills. The route crosses over the limestone heights along the last leg of Akeman Street, a major Roman road running west from modern-day St Albans to Cirencester (or Corinium, as the Romans knew it). Starting out in the unspoiled Coln river valley, the path rolls past a series of ancient villages close to Ampney brook and the river Churn. It’s worth keeping up a good pace as the real archaeological treats await towards the end. On the outskirts of Cirencester stand the grass-covered remains of a Roman amphitheatre. Reserve time for the Roman museum in town, too, home to an impressive pottery collection as well as a rare, recently discovered tombstone.
theromanway.co.uk
Oliver Balch
LONG-DISTANCE TRAILS THAT CAN BE BROKEN INTO SECTIONS
Bracken Way, Yorkshire Dales
Distance 85 miles
Start/finish Settle
Stages 7 (14-16 miles each)
Duration 7-8 days
This customised circular ramble was devised by Where2Walk’s Jonathan Smith to show off the best of the Dales. It skirts the 723m Ingleborough peak, Buckden Pike and Great Whernside, which make for easy side walks, and whose stark slopes and flat tops soften into valleys, such as Dentdale and Wensleydale. Tackled in stretches of about 15 miles a day, the limestone pavement of Malham Cove (featured hilariously in a scene from Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon’s The Trip) and sharp ravine Gordale Scar are among early highlights. But geographical delights keep coming, with England’s highest single-drop waterfall Hardraw Force, near Hawes (day four), multi-stepped Aysgarth Falls and a host of timeless dales, villages and hamlets. One of these, Feizor, is home to Elaine’s tearoom/restaurant, a meeting point for walkers at the junction of several paths. The route covers a few miles of the Pennine Way – and it makes a shorter alternative to, or good training for, that longer and more challenging trail.
where2walk.co.uk, Settle can be reached by rail
North Downs Way, Surrey/Kent
Distance 153 miles
Start/finish Farnham/Dover
Stages 14, or 15 if you take the Canterbury Loop (8-14 miles each)
Duration 15-18 days
In March, this hike from Farnham to Dover became the first national trail to be captured by Google Street View from start to finish, enabling prospective walkers to check terrain, route and pubs before they set off. Proximity to London and the M25-M20 might dissuade walkers from giving the North Downs a go but the route is almost entirely in areas of outstanding natural beauty and often feels suitably remote. It also resonates with historical significance, from pre-Roman times through Chaucer and the medieval pilgrims, to Darwin (whose observations were made close to the west Kent stretch of the trail), and the Battle of Britain, fought overhead. There are quaint old villages on the Way, like Chilham in Kent, fantastic views across the Garden of England, streams, springs, beech and oak woodland, idyllic meadows, rare orchids, butterflies and birds, and striking features such as the sharp cleft in the downs near Wye in Kent called the Devil’s Kneading Trough, Box Hill (Surrey) and Dover’s chalk cliffs. The North Downs Way can serve as a an ideal training ground to test your stamina, without having to worry about access (trains and buses are plentiful). It also makes a great (though rather long) pub crawl, with great inns (such as the White Horse in Chilham) and local breweries (Shepherd Neame, Westerham and Canterbury Ales) close to the route. Wild camping is not allowed along the trail but CampInMyGarden.com may provide some answers. There’s no shortage of pubs with rooms, B&Bs and hotels in the villages and towns along the way.
nationaltrail.co.uk/north-downs-way
John Muir Way, Scotland
Distance 134 miles
Start/finish Helensburgh/Dunbar
Stages 10 (9-18 miles each)
Duration 10-11 days
It may lack the drama of the wild and challenging Cape Wrath Trail, and some seasoned Scottish trekkers will be horrified that its high point (the Kilpatrick Hills) is only 401 metres, but this coast-to-coast route does something different: it’s a window not only on Scotland’s ancient landscape, but its industrial history and urban present. Named after Yosemite pioneer John Muir, who spent his early years at Dunbar (the trail’s eastern terminus), the walk breaks down into 10 sections, each doable in a day. The early stretches, starting on the Firth of Clyde at Helensburgh, traverse moors and forest and skirt glorious Loch Lomond; it later takes in canals, the extraordinary boat-shifting Falkirk Wheel, castles, tiny fishing ports and the small matter of Edinburgh. Its excellent website details pubs and B&Bs en route, and there’s good signposting and decent public transport access for each section.
johnmuirway.org.uk
Glyndŵr’s Way, Mid-Wales
Distance 135 miles
Start/finish Knighton/Welshpool
Stages 9 (12-18 miles each)
Duration 9-11 days
Snowdonia? Brecon Beacons? Offa’s Dyke? All awesome – but well-trodden. So where in Wales can you find a grown-up, long-distance trail that’s properly in the sticks, where you might not meet anyone for hours on end, and where logistics aren’t so easy? Bang in the middle, of course, where there are rolling hills, forests, lakes, high moors, the low Cambrian mountains, a richly green landscape dotted with sheep, and settlements you’ve never heard of. In late medieval times, rebel prince Owain Glyndŵr restlessly crisscrossed this ground on his way to one battle or another, but he certainly never did this 135-mile route for the hell of it. Best broken into nine stages of about 15 strenuous, hilly miles each, the chevron-shaped trail starts at Knighton and ends at Welshpool, both of which are served by trains from Shrewsbury. At the halfway point is picturesque Machynlleth, also on the rail network, and site of Glyndŵr’s 1400s parliament. The small town is host to the Museum of Modern Art Wales and the superb Centre for Alternative Technology. It’s an ideal place to stop/start the hike if you want to break it into two sections of five days each – a good option, given the minimal bus services between the villages. It’s worth remembering, too, that mobile phone coverage is patchy on the trail, so it’s best to plan in advance, particularly as not every village has a pub or shop. B&Bs and campsites are plentiful, however.
nationaltrail.co.uk/glyndwrs-way
South West Coast Path, West Country
Distance 630 miles
Start/finish Minehead/Poole
Stages 52 (6-15 miles each)
Duration 40 days
England’s longest trail involves a daunting 35,000 metres of ascent (nearly four Everests), what with all those pesky inlets, undulating cliff tops and river valleys. Really fast walkers can combine a few sections and do the whole thing in up to six weeks but, starting on 25 April, Royal Marine Baz Gray will be looking to complete it in a record-breaking 10 days (he’ll be running) for charity. The huge variety of coastal scenery, including the giant heather-clad cliffs of north Devon, Cornwall’s rocky coves, Dorset’s fossil-rich shores, and the ever-present, explosive Atlantic, make it one of the most popular long trails in the world, with a huge number of spin-off walks. The ever-changing weather of the peninsula produces mood-altering light effects and the views on the northern stretches, across the Bristol Channel to south Wales, are mesmerising; sometimes the Welsh shore appears close enough to nip over to in a small boat with a picnic, but then it just vanishes as the weather shifts. If the 630 miles are not quite enough, you’ll be pleased to hear that you can extend to or from Minehead with a new 58-mile path to Brean, Somerset, via Watchet, part of the English Coast Trail, which is set to open in 2020.
southwestcoastpath.org.uk
Adam McCulloch
UK FAMILY WALKS
Navigating Forest Walks with Young Kids in Norfolk
Duration of hike: 1-5 miles
Venture into the beautiful landscape of Sheringham Park, a scenic National Trust woodland and garden located in the north of Norfolk. The park features a vibrant display of rhododendrons and azaleas, making this season an exquisite time for a visit. The park provides a variety of path options, lending themselves perfectly to families with tots who love to toddle.
For those accompanying the smallest explorers, the clearly signposted orange (one-mile) and blue paths (two-mile) are the most suitable. The two-mile blue path, in particular, leads to a fascinating tower, commonly referred to as "the gazebo," offering a spectacular view of the neighbouring tree canopy, the North Sea, and the puffing steam engines of the North Norfolk Railway.
More adventurous children with stronger legs might prefer the more challenging five-mile red route which includes a journey through Weybourne Heath. The quality of the path surfaces makes them quite buggy-friendly on the shorter routes. After the walk, a newly established café and visitor centre await to cater for your refreshment needs.
If your exploration of the beautiful Sheringham Park has you keen for more Norfolk experiences, consider extending your stay in the region. Plenty of comfortable and affordable hotels in Norfolk on tophotels.com will give you an opportunity for a fantastic overnight stay, enabling you to explore even more of the beautiful surroundings. Alternatively, if you are longing for a more authentic and intimate stay, there is an array of charming holiday homes in Norfolk available for rent - http://www.in-norfolk.com/en/type/holiday-homes-33/. These holiday homes provide a perfect base for you to extend your outdoor adventures and enjoy the delights of Norfolk's countryside to the fullest.
Parking costs: £5.20, nationaltrust.org.uk/sheringham-park.
Tracking Winnie the Pooh, East Sussex
Distance 1-4 miles
Enticing paths meander off in all directions through pine clumps, heather and gorse, and views of distant downs and secret valleys proliferate in this area of the High Weald. The Ashdown Forest was one of Henry VIII’s hunting grounds and also a centre for iron smelting in the middle ages, but it’s best known now as the setting for the Winnie the Pooh stories. There are many walks with stories to interest kids and all can be cut short or made longer, thanks to the multitude of paths. Many are doable with a buggy. From the Gills Lap car park off the B2026, you can do a two-mile Pooh Walk, taking in the real locations of the Heffalump Trap, Roo’s Sandy Pit and Eeyore’s Gloomy Place. Excellent for refreshments are the Hatch Inn and Duddleswell Tea Rooms. The Ashdown Forest Centre at Wych Cross has local info, picnic tables and interesting exhibits, and is also a hub for walks.
Trains from London to East Grinstead, Eridge, Uckfield and Crowborough, buses to Wych Cross and Chelwood Gate, ashdownforest.org
Boat ride to Catbells ridge, Lake District
Trail Length: Approximately 3.7 miles
The delightful trek atop the 450m altitude Catbells ridge boasts of one distinct advantage - no requirement for a vehicle if you're staying in Keswick. You can indulge your adventurous spirit by hitching a ride on the boat operated by Keswick Launch. The journey to the trail’s starting point at Hawse End consumes all of ten minutes (for the hourly, anticlockwise boat around Derwent Water; the clockwise route takes a bit longer at 40 minutes). This walking route is especially enjoyable for kids over the age of five, with occasional need for some minor hand assistance at a few junctures and a few gentle slopes to tackle. But the stunning vistas of High Seat, Skiddaw, Grasmoor and Great Gable skylines reflected in the lake along the route will without a doubt raise everybody's morale, further buoyed by the delicious treats awaiting at Swinside Inn which marks the trail's end.
walklakes.co.uk
Wildlife galore, Isle of Mull
Distance 3-6 miles
Lochbuie, a remote inlet on the southern, sheltered shores of magical Mull has a picturesque ruined castle (you can walk up to it but not go in), a well-preserved ancient stone circle, a haunting mausoleum and Laggan Sands, one of the best beaches in the UK for wildlife spotting. The scene is presided over by the handsome 747m Ben Buie. Otters, sea and golden eagles, red-throated divers, dolphins and seals are often seen; in fact the whole area is great for rare fauna and flora, all of which can be enjoyed along this simple there-and-back walk on a marked track towards Glenbyre (two miles) and Carsaig (six miles). A handy starting point is the Old Post Office run by a family which has farmed in the area for decades and which provides refreshments from 9am-5pm, seven days a week. Lochbuie was the setting for the 1945 Powell and Pressburger film I Know Where I’m Going, described by both Martin Scorsese and Barry Norman as a masterpiece.
lochbuie.com
Ancient England, Northumberland
Distance 5½ miles
Northumberland’s coast has a special, quiet atmosphere all of its own with sweeping sands, dunes alive with wild flowers in spring, and settlements with long memories of fishing, industry, intruders from the east and early Christianity. This simple there-and-back route starts in Craster (synonymous with top-notch kippers) and heads along the coast to ruined Dunstanburgh Castle. From there, continue past Greymare Rock, a limestone feature created by volcanic activity during the formation of the Whin Sill rock intrusion (on which Hadrian’s Wall was built), and make for the glorious beach of Embleton Bay, watching out for seals. You can go inland to make it a circular route but walking back with those sea views along the embankment and cliffs is the more scenic option. For refreshment, head to Embleton village and the Greys Inn, a friendly pub that serves real ales and good food. Back in Craster, the Jolly Fisherman is a fine historic pub for a meal.
nationaltrust.org.uk
Adam McCulloch