Relaxed, energetic and stunning, Sydney is the vibrant hub of New South Wales. The metropolis offers a culinary scene that can compete with any other worldwide, and is leading the way in modern design, boasting stylish hotels and top-notch dining establishments. However, exploring Sydney is not just about tasting its food and appreciating the design aesthetics, but also about experiencing the local lifestyle. Living like a true Sydneysider requires choosing the right accommodation. Welcome to the Sydney apartments at newsouthwaleshotels.net . These apartments demonstrate a keen interpretation of modern urban living with comfortable rooms, complete with full-service amenities, to ensure an unforgettable stay.
Where to stay in Sydney
BLACKET HOTEL
70 King Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9279 3030; fax: 00 61 2 9279 3020; www.blackethotel.com.au; email: theblacket@theblacket.com). This luxury 42-room hotel, launched in 2001, is situated in a former bank in Sydney's business quarter. The Blacket has retained the neo-classical exterior of the building, but is otherwise unapologetically contemporary - understatement is the design signature throughout. Designer John Harrs has used creams, whites, dark browns and blacks as the interior palette. The trendy bar, Minc, is in the atmospheric old bank vault. Blacket Hotel featured in The Hot List 2002. £
CENTRAL PARK
185 Castlereagh Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9283 5000; fax: 00 61 2 9283 2710). In the heart of the business district, this hotel caters to both private and corporate clients. With only 35 rooms, it feels like a plush private residence. ££
DIVE HOTEL
234 Arden Street, Coogee (00 61 2 9665 5538; fax: 00 61 2 9665 4347; www.divehotel.com.au). The Dive Hotel, a groovy family-run guesthouse in Coogee, about 8km southeast of central Sydney, is a good-value option during the warmer months, even if it is a bit of a hike from the city. A cursory glance at the crisp cotton sheets, polished floorboards and blue-tiled bathrooms reveals that this hotel doesn't live up (or down) to its name. All 14 rooms have a small kitchen, fridge and microwave. The ocean views out to Wedding Cake Island are superb. £
ESTABLISHMENT HOTEL
5 Bridge Lane, Sydney (00 61 2 9240 3100; fax: 00 61 2 9240 3101; www.merivale.com; email: info@establishmenthotel.com). Urban types will like the Establishment Hotel: it has 33 slick rooms and two penthouses, mood lighting and plenty of street cred. Part of a very cool bar-and-restaurant complex, the Establishment was featured in The Hot List 2001. ££
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SYDNEY
199 George Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9238 0000; fax: 00 61 2 9251 2851; www.fourseasons.com/sydney). An established favourite with grand marble lobby and dramatic staircase sweeping up to the restaurants and spa. The hotel is in The Rocks, within walking distance of the Museum of Contemporary Art, Sydney Opera House and the business district. There are 531 rooms, including 121 suites. Service is thoughtful and attentive; many of the staff seem to know guests' names. There is elegant, relaxing Kable's for contemporary Australian fare, The Cabana for poolside salads and The Bar for wines and cocktails. The spa, regarded as one of the city's best, includes a well-equipped fitness centre and the largest outdoor hotel pool in Sydney. The hotel's position near the tip of the city peninsula ensures that virtually all rooms have harbour views. ££
INTERCONTINENTAL SYDNEY
117 Macquarie Street (00 61 2 9253 9000; fax: 00 61 2 9240 1240; www.sydney.intercontinental.com; email: sydney@interconti.com). Landmark hotel in the 19th-century Treasury Building, only a short stroll from the Sydney Opera House. The decor is best described as 'modern-classic' and the service is warm and attentive. The hotel offers jaw-dropping views of the city and the full shimmer of the harbour, including Harbour Bridge and the Sydney Opera House. There are 509 recently refurbished bedrooms, including 28 sleek corner suites, with sublime beds, feather-and-down pillows and plush under-window seating. Visit Mint Bar for Mediterranean food (www.mintbaranddining.com.au), The Cortile for cocktails and Café Opera for seafood lunch and post-opera suppers. ££
L'OTEL
114 Darlinghurst Road, Sydney (00 61 2 9360 6868; fax: 00 61 2 9331 4536; www.lotel.com.au; email: hotel@lotel.com.au).
A narrow, three-storey hotel revamped in 2000 by minimalist design firm Burley Katon Halliday. Excellent location at the Kings Cross-end of always-busy Darlinghurst, and not far from Oxford Street. On the minus side (or plus, depending on how you see it) the hotel is right in the heart of the nightlife action, with live music in the bar downstairs and lots of clubs nearby. £
MEDINA GRAND HARBOURSIDE
55 Shelley Street, King Street Wharf, Sydney (00 61 2 9249 7000; fax: 00 61 2 9249 6900; www.medinaapartments.com.au; email: mghs@medinaapartments.com.au). The well-appointed apartments of Medina Grand Harbourside are ideal for longer-term visitors. Located in the new entertainment precinct of King Street Wharf, within easy walking distance of the City area and Circular Quay, Medina Grand Harbourside offers an on-site restaurant, a pool, sauna and fitness centre. The Medina chain sets the benchmark for this type of accommodation in Australia, and it has other local properties too ££.
MEDUSA
267 Darlinghurst Road, Sydney (00 61 2 9331 1000; fax: 00 61 2 9380 6901; www.medusa.com.au; email: info@medusa.com.au). The Medusa is Sydney's most idiosyncratic boutique hotel. Converted from a Victorian terrace mansion in Darlinghurst, it is a decadent, super-modern and terribly exclusive glamour-pad with only 18 rooms. Unsurprisingly, it attracts a regular clientele from the fashion and film worlds, so bring your unsold film script with you. The rooms facing the courtyards are best. ££
METRO HOTEL ON PITT
300 Pitt Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9283 8088; fax: 00 61 2 9283 2825; www.metrohospitalitygroup.com; email: reservations@metrohg.com). The Metro Hotel is located in Sydney's theatre district. A small and well-run hotel, the Metro offers great value for money. It may be short on amenities (eg there is no parking), but the recently refurbished rooms are well above the average with pure cotton sheets, silk bed-throws, cable TV and Internet ports. It's also just a quick hop to Chinatown, Darling Harbour and the Central Railway Station. £
MOOGHOTEL
413 Bourke Street, Surry Hills, Sydney (00 61 2 8353 8200; fax: 00 61 2 8353 8201; www.mooghotel.com). Ultra-cool Mooghotel is one of Sydney's most luxurious designer dens. Located in bohemian Surry Hills, it is a 'one-suite music hotel' with a plunge pool, his-and-her bathrooms and a gym. It helps with bookings if you are a rock star or a DJ. Mooghotel was featured in The Hot List 2004. ££££
PARK HYATT SYDNEY
7 Hickson Road, The Rocks, Sydney (00 61 2 9241 1234; fax: 00 61 2 9256 1555; www.sydney.park.hyatt.com; email: sydney@hyatt.com.au). The entrance reflects the arches of the Harbour Bridge and the interiors provide a glamorous showcase for classic 20th-century furniture. The Park Hyatt Sydney is situated right on the waterfront at the northern end of the business district, close to The Rocks, and it offers 158 rooms, including 31 studio suites. The harbourkitchen&bar is one of the city's most inspired restaurants and the adjoining cocktail bar has a tapas menu. Both the restaurant and the rooms look across the water to the opera house. The refurbished suites have sexy, open-plan marble bathrooms, glamorous decor and Eames furniture. £££
ROCKFORT
61 Lower Fort Street, The Rocks, Sydney (00 61 2 9251 9475; fax: 00 61 2 9251 9552). An elegant colonial building from 1835 with just four voluminous, airy rooms, all with views over Walsh Bay. English breakfast is served but there is no restaurant. ££
SHANGRI-LA HOTEL
176 Cumberland Street, The Rocks, Sydney (00 61 2 9250 6000; fax: 00 61 2 9250 6250; www.shangri-la.com/sydney; email: slsn@shangri-la.com). Sleek high-rise, recently renovated and upgraded with a host of new facilities, located between the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge in the Rocks. The Shangri-La Sydney has 563 rooms and suites including 117 Horizon Club rooms for business travellers, with club lounge, purser and free suit-press. The service is efficient and discreet, as you would expect from Shangri-La: anything can be taken care of, around the clock, whatever the request. You can find fresh, seasonal food at Altitude, cocktails at the adjoining Blu Horizon bar and a continuous seafood buffet at Café Mix. ££
THE DIAMANT HOTEL
14 Kings Cross Road (00 61 2 9332 2011; www.diamant.com.au). The first really swanky hotel in Kings Cross opened in September 2007. It's next to the landmark Coca-Cola sign and has 77 bedrooms, many with harbour views, and one with a 200sq-ft terrace.
THE HUGHENDEN
14 Queen Street, Woollahra (00 61 2 1800 6424 32; fax: 00 61 2 9362 0398; www.hughendenhotel.com.au; email: admin@hughendenhotel.com.au). The Hughenden in Woollahra is fun and arty in a raffish, country-house style, and although some of the rooms are on the small side, this well established hotel is full of charm. Its location is hard to beat - situated round the corner from Oxford Street's fashion shopping and Queen Street's antique shops and galleries - both Bondi and the City are only a short bus ride away. Centennial Park is just across the street.
THE KIRKETON
229 Darlinghurst Road, Darlinghurst, Sydney (00 61 2 9332 2011; fax: 00 61 2 9332 2499; www.kirketon.com.au; email: info@kirketon.com.au). The Medusa's sister property, located only a few paces away, is slightly bigger but equally hip with 40 rooms decorated in minimalist style. The Kirketon also has a fabulous restaurant, Kells Kitchen, run by two British brothers, Grant and Spencer Kells, both chefs. £
THE OBSERVATORY HOTEL
89-113 Kent Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9256 2222; fax: 00 61 2 9256 2233; www.observatoryhotel.com.au; email: email@observatoryhotel.com.au). The Observatory in The Rocks is a good choice for travellers who want a bit more intimacy than in a normal hotel. Although the interiors are rather fussy and the hushed European ambience might not suit everyone, the Observatory's food and service are legendary. ££
THE REGENTS COURT
18 Springfield Avenue, Potts Point, Sydney (00 61 2 9358 1533; fax: 00 61 2 9358 1833; www.regentscourt.com.au; email: bookings@regentscourt.com.au). Ideal for those seeking a small, chic hotel in the centre of the action. There are 30 enormous rooms in the Regents Court, almost like a series of luxury studio apartments, and a pretty roof garden. The hotel runs a scheme that allows a writer to stay in the hotel for free while working in the roof garden. £
THE SEBEL PIER ONE
11 Hickson Road, The Rocks, Sydney (00 61 2 8298 9999; fax: 00 61 2 8298 9777). Occupying a heritage-protected Edwardian warehouse, the hotel lobby has a glass floor built directly over the harbour. The design of each room is different, though all have panoramic views over either the Harbour Bridge or Walsh Bay. ££
VIBE RUSHCUTTERS
100 Bayswater Road, Rushcutters Bay, Sydney (00 61 2 8353 8988; fax: 00 61 2 8353 8999; www.vibehotels.com.au; email: vhrs@vibehotels.com.au). It may have a silly name but the recently revamped Vibe Rushcutters hotel, overlooking Rushcutters Bay yacht marina, is stylish, affordable and set in the heart of Sydney's shopping, grazing and latte-sipping belt. The sleaze of Kings Cross and the Pacific breakers at Bondi are handy, and both tennis and sailing are on the doorstep. Its cheapest rooms can feel cramped, however, so a suite with park and harbour views is the best option. ££
W SYDNEY
The Wharf at Woolloomooloo, Sydney (00 61 2 9331 9000; fax: 00 61 2 9331 9031; www.whotels.com; email: wsydney@whotels.com). Hip, urban and theatrically lit, the W Sydney is well-positioned between the Botanic Gardens, the Art Gallery of New South Wales and the nightlife of Kings Cross. There are 100 rooms, including 36 loft rooms and the young staff deliver a friendly, upbeat service. The W café offers flavourful contemporary food, but the wharf is also home to restaurants such as Otto (Italian) and China Doll (Chinese). Try one of the cocktails from the delicious Martini menu in the Water Bar and the adjoining lounge accented with brightly coloured sofas and ottomans. ££
Where to eat out in Sydney
ARIA 1 Macquarie Street, Circular Quay East, Sydney (00 61 2 9252 2555; www.ariarestaurant.com). A dressy spot to enjoy Matthew Moran's steamed pink snapper with caviar sauce and sweeping views over the Harbour. If you were any closer to the Opera House, you would be in it.
BANC Elizabeth Street Entrance, 53 Martin Place, Sydney (00 61 2 9233 5300). Elegantly restored former bank with refined take on British/French cooking.
BAR COLUZZI 322 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst, Sydney (00 61 2 9380 5420). Sydney is awash with cute espresso bars but few have any real pedigree. Bar Coluzzi, in Darlinghurst, is the obvious exception. This is a Formica-clad place where QCs rub shoulders with Lycra-clad cyclists, journalists and amateur boxers. The coffee is relentlessly strong and you will struggle to find a seat outside on the pavement.
BBQ KING 18 Goulburn Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9267 2586). Forget reservations, tablecloths, and fine manners - you're here for an honest bowl of noodles or sensational but no-frills roast duck. The best Chinese food in Sydney.
BEL MONDO Gloucester Walk, The Rocks, Sydney (00 61 2 9241 3700;www.belmondo.com.au; email: reservations@belmondo.com.au). Housed in the oldest warehouse in Sydney, Bel Mondo offers modern Austalian food with locally sourced ingredients, served in a New York-loft environment. A bit tricky to find, but well worth it.
BILLS 433 Liverpool Street, Darlinghurst (00 61 2 9360 9631; www.bills.com.au). Breakfast at any of Bill Granger's cafes is a classic eating experience, although Sydney-siders maintain that this, the original Bills, in Darlinghurst, is still the best. Try his ricotta hotcakes or scrambled eggs.
BILLY KWONG 355 Crown Street, Surry Hills, Sydney (00 61 2 9332 3300;www.kyliekwong.org). Kylie Kwong reinvents the Chinese classics in a modern interpretation of a Shanghai eating house for urbanites.
BIRD, COW, FISH 500 Crown Street, Surry Hills (00 61 2 9380 4090; www.birdcowfish.com.au). This is run by chef Alex Herbert and her husband Howard Gardner, who manages the restaurant. The restaurant is simple but it is also one of Sydney's most impressive. In a bright corner site that combines restaurant, café and cheese shop, Herbert displays a discerning eye for the best and most seasonal Australian produce. She combines this with an intensity of cooking that extracts the most intense flavours. You may eat Pan-fried Hiramasa kingfish or a seared Coorong hanger steak with shoe-string fries.
BURGERMAN 249 Bondi Road, Bondi, Sydney (00 61 2 9130 4888). No polystyrene boxes, no sugary buns, just a great burger with the lot. In Australia, that includes pickled beetroot.
CAFÉ SOPRA At Fratelli Fresh, 7 Danks Street, Waterloo (00 61 2 9699 3161). Café Sopra is situated on the first floor of the extremely fashionable food warehouse Fratelli Fresh, which is spread over 2,000 square metres on two floors in what used to be a printing factory. Owner Barry Macdonald serves excellent, authentic Italian food.
CATALINA 1 Sunderland Avenue, Lyne Park, Rose Bay, Sydney (00 61 2 9371 0555; www.catalinarosebay.com.au; email: reservations@catalinarosebay.com.au). Sitting on the front balcony of this waterfront gem, with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and platter of sushi, is like sitting on Sydney's veranda. The food can be described as modern Australian with Mediterranean flavours and the salmon is smoked on the premises.
CLAUDE'S 10 Oxford Street, Woollahra, Sydney (00 61 2 9331 2325; www.claudes.org; email: restaurant@claudes.org). Chui Lee Luk applies classic French technique to the finest local Australian produce in this Woollahra restaurant.
DOLCETTA CAFÉ 165 Victoria Street (00 61 2 9326 9899). This dishes up good Italian fare at generous prices, including pasta dishes and takeaway coffee.
FAVELA CHURRASCARIA 1 Kellett Way (00 61 2 9380 7950; www.favela.com.au). This may take its name from the Rio slums, alluding to Kings Cross's chequered past, but in its shimmering interior guests lounge on linen banquettes and graze on pan-Asian dishes while 8,000 lightbulbs animate the dance floor.
FISH FACE 132 Darlinghurst Road (00 61 2 9332 4803). Run by the obviously fish-obsessed chef/proprietor Steve Hodges, this displays the same fusion of talents as Café Sopra, albeit on a much smaller scale. Fish Face is just 15 metres wide and six metres deep with seating for no more than 28. It is pretty cramped, with some diners at a small sushi counter, some on window sills and some perched on poser tables. This is the kind of restaurant where you inevitably end up talking to your neighbour. The open kitchen is cramped but manages to house an international workforce. Behind everything you eat, which could include a confit of tuna, a carpaccio of red snapper and thick chunks of blue-eye cod with a romesco sauce, lies an obvious commitment to sourcing, preparing and cooking the freshest fish.
Uncover one of Sydney's recent gems located at Jones Bay Wharf, Lower Deck Suite, 19-21 Pirrama Road, with offerings that would tantalise your palate—this is Flying Fish. Diners are guaranteed a mesmerizing vista of Sydney Harbour complemented by a vibrant night sky while feasting on the savoury taste of Flying Fish dishes. Have a taste of their celebrated Yellowfin Tuna partnered with the irresistible crackling sweet pork masterfully prepared by their acclaimed Chef Peter Kuruvita. Wind-up your meal at their inviting cocktail bar or stroll around the wharf with a drink in hand. Flying Fish is open from Tuesday to Sunday. To learn more, visit their website or contact them through email.
Experience a novel breakfast at Fratelli Paradiso, 16 Challis Avenue, Potts Point, Sydney. Join in the European breakfast tradition that Sydneysiders have embraced, and dive into an unusual breakfast of designer rice pudding, riso al latte, pane bianco, or crispy crepes.
Nestled at 2 Elizabeth bay Road, the Gazebo Wine Garden invites you in with its charming moss wall and oversized faux roses. However, behind this unique setting lies a serious approach to wine, offering 50 varieties available by the glass. Comfortably relax here anytime after 3 pm on weekdays or from noon during weekends. Visit their website for more details.
Set foot in the Golden Century at 393-399 Sussex Street, Haymarket, Sydney. Indulge in their exceptional congee, fresh fish directly sourced from their tanks, and savor their Queensland mud crab, served two ways. Golden Century makes its culinary delights accessible until the early morning. For more information, check out their website or reach out to them through email.
GUILLAUME AT BENNELONG Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point, Sydney (00 61 2 9241 6766; www.guillaumeatbennelong.com.au) Frenchman Guillaume Brahimi's restaurant is the toast of Sydney's foodies. This magical space at the Sydney Opera House has defeated many chefs in the past, but Brahimi's attention to detail has won him a legion of fans. Signature dishes include basil-infused tuna with mustard-seed vinaigrette, baby snapper on a bed of fennel, and a rack of white river veal. There are stunning views of the waterfront.
HARBOUR KITCHEN AND BAR 7 Hickson Road, The Rocks, Sydney (00 61 2 9256 1661; www.harbourkitchen.com.au; email: hkbar@hyatt.com.au). Sparkling harbour and Opera House views accompany Ross Lusted's spit roasts and charcoal grills at Harbour Kitchen and Bar at Sydney Park Hyatt Hotel (see Where to Stay). Floor to ceiling glass windows, open design and modern Australian/Mediterranean food. Open daily.
HUGO'S 70 Campbell Parade, Bondi, Sydney (00 61 2 9300 0900). Grab a pavement table and watch the surf roll in as most of Bondi rolls by. Great for brunch.
ICEBERGS DINING ROOM & BAR 1 Notts Avenue, Bondi Beach, Sydney (00 61 2 9365 9000; www.idrb.com; email: idrb@idrb.com). This is another A-list restaurant, presided over by the urbane Maurice Terzini. A fashionable place where film stars like Jack Nicholson, Nicole Kidman and Geoffrey Rush jostle for attention with Sydney's in-crowd. Open Tuesday to Saturday.
IL BARETTO 496 Bourke Street, Surry Hills, Sydney (00 61 2 9361 6163). Streetside Italian caff serving up fregola with clams, trofie with pesto and potatoes, and hand-made strozzapreti with rabbit sauce.
INDUSTRIE - SOUTH OF FRANCE 107 Pitt Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9221 8001; www.industriebar.com.au; email: events@industriebar.com.au). Crowded and noisy Industrie - South of France in Pitt Street is very idiosyncratic. The place blends Gallic pomp with Aussie inventiveness to good effect. The seafood and salads are especially good and the French wine list eclectic.
LATTERIA 320 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst, Sydney (00 61 2 9331 2914). Pull up a stool and let Vito and Tommaso pull you a strong espresso or caffè latte in a glass, Sydney-style.
LONGRAIN 85 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills, Sydney (00 61 2 9280 2888; www.longrain.com; email: info@longrain.com). An award-winning Thai restaurant at the heart of Surry Hills, Longrain has made its name as one of the best dinner spots in the city. Sit alongside a hip crowd at long, baronial tables, and enjoy Martin Boetz's irresistible Thai salads. Open for lunch Wednesday to Sunday, and dinner all week.
LUCIO'S 47 Windsor Street, Paddington, Sydney (00 61 2 9380 5996; www.lucios.com.au; email: info@lucios.com.au). The Sydney business lunch may not be what it once was, but the Bentleys, BMWs and Range Rovers parked outside Lucio's suggest otherwise. Lucio Galletto has been serving sophisticated Italian food to media and political heavyweights and artists (whose work lines the walls) since 1983. The signature dish here is the blue swimmer crab with tagliolini, but the whole baked fish and involtini of spatchcock are also remarkable. The service is impeccable, the ambience relaxed and sunny.
MCA CAFE 140 George Street, The Rocks, Sydney (00 61 2 9250 8461; www.mca.com.au). The in-house café at the Museum of Contemporary Art, MCA Café quickly made its name when it was re-opened in the early 00s as one of Sydney's best places to lunch. Open for lunch daily, and breakfast on Saturday and Sunday between 10 and 11.30am.
OTTO RISTORANTE ITALIANO 6 Cowper Wharf Road, Woolloomooloo, Sydney (00 61 2 9368 7488; www.ottoristorante.com.au). Since it opened in March 2000, Otto has made itself a reputation as the best Italian restaurant in Sydney. Its Milanese high style comes to the water's edge, along with its rustic food and Campari cocktails. Michael Caine, Kylie Minogue and Bill Clinton have all eaten here. Open daily.
PIER RESTAURANT 594 New South Head Road, Rose Bay, Sydney (00 61 2 9327 6561; www.pierrestaurant.com.au). Greg Doyle and Grant King cook the best and freshest fish in town and serve it amid water-fringed surroundings.
QUAY Upper Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal, Circular Quay West, The Rocks, Sydney (00 61 2 9251 5600; www.quay.com.au). With killer harbour views and a chef who has put modern Australian cuisine on the map, Quay at Circular Quay is not to be missed. Peter Gilmore's creations give the vista a run for its money, even on a sparkling summer's day. His confit of pork belly with scallop, mud crab with tomato sorbet and poached quail with prosciutto and shaved cuttlefish are enough to make most people swoon. But the wine list is ruinously expensive, as are many of the daily specials.
ROCKPOOL 107 George Street, The Rocks, Sydney (00 61 2 9252 1888; www.rockpool.com). If The Rocks is the birthplace of Sydney, then Rockpool is the birthplace of modern Australian cooking. Fresh Australian seafood and Oriental flavours in a European tradition, a combination mastered by chef Neil Perry.
SAILOR'S THAI CANTEEN 106 George Street, The Rocks, Sydney (00 612 9251 2466;www.sailorsthai.com.au). Sit at the long gleaming stainless steel table and enjoy the steamy pleasures of owners David Thompson and Peter Bowyer's Bangkok street food.
TETSUYA'S 529 Kent Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9267 2900; www.tetsuyas.com). People have been known to fly to Sydney just to eat at Tetsuya's. The restaurant only accommodates 90 diners and tables are booked far ahead, but devotees of Tetsuya Wakuda will wait weeks for the divine experience of eating his food. The fixed-priced menu - which changes constantly - features delicacies such as lobster ravioli with scallop terrine, marinated roast breast of duck with coffee and tartare of tuna with olive oil and wasabi jelly.
THE BATHERS' PAVILION 4 The Esplanade, Balmoral Beach (00 61 2 9969 5050; www.batherspavilion.com.au). No visit to Sydney would be complete without a pilgrimage to The Bathers' Pavilion restaurant, overseen by Serge Dansereau, and its more relaxed café, located on the northern side of the harbour at Balmoral Beach. The food at The Bathers' Pavilion is inventive and the ambience relaxed. With amazing views, it's a great place to linger over a dessert such as the délice du chocolat and an espresso.
THE LINCOLN 36 Bayswater Road (00 61 2 9331 2311; www.thelincoln.com.au). This is a swish, Art Deco-style lounge bar with a dining room and dance floor. Serves a number of set Greek-style menus and Mezes for light snacks.
THE WATERMARK 2a The Esplanade, Balmoral Beach, Sydney (00 61 2 9968 3433; www.watermarkrestaurant.com.au; email: admin@watermarkrestaraurant.com.au). The weekend brunches are justly famous, and the dramatically different fusion food - Australia meets Asia - deserves all the attention it can get. The wine list offers a comprehensive mix of local and imported bottles. Open daily, though there is no dinner service on a Sunday.
WHARF RESTAURANT Pier 4/5, Hickson Road, Walsh Bay, Sydney (00 612 9250 1761; www.wharfrestaurant.com.au; email: events@wharfrestaurant.com.au). Casually-priced modern Mediterranean cuisine.
The best nightlife in Sydney
BARS
HEMMESPHERE Level 4, 252 George Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9240 3040). A cooler and slightly older crowd dresses up for Hemmesphere; a swanky nightspot with a glorious cocktail list, the best leather sofas in town and a reputation for attracting visiting glitterati. LOTUS BAR 22 Challis Avenue, Potts Point, Sydney (00 61 2 9326 9000). Laid-back Lotus Bar is a shrine of restraint and retro design. Located in Potts Point, it now also serves stylish meals in its restaurant. MARS LOUNGE 16 Wentworth Avenue, Sydney (00 61 2 9267 6440; www.marslounge.com.au; email: mars@marslounge.com.au). This is the place to be if you fancy a Martian Mule, Marsberry or Martian Mary, served in a red environment. The venue looks like a red planet inspired spaceship, the crowd is cool and the drinks fairly well-priced. ORBIT LOUNGE BAR Level 47, 264 George Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9247 9777; www.summitrestaurant.com.au). Go to Orbit Lounge Bar at the Summit Restaurant for high 1970s retro glamour in one of Sydney's finest skyscrapers. The bar also serves tapas, quality cocktails and has stunning views of the city. It revolves, for goodness sake.
SLIP INN 111 Sussex Street, Sydney (00 61 2 8295 9999). Outwardly little more than a corner pub, the Slip Inn is the place for an all-round club experience and good snacks. It contains no less than six bars, plus an outside terrace for those muggy Sydney nights. The crowd is a mix of Eurotrash, city suits and very slim office girls. THE LOFT 3 Lime Street, King Street Wharf, Sydney (00 61 2 9299 4770; www.theloftsydney.com). The Loft has a water view and attracts celebrity drinkers, pencil-thin models, advertising types and various wannabes. Get there early if you plan to sit down - the bar is packed on Friday and Saturday nights.
THE VICTORIA ROOM 235 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst, Sydney (00 61 2 9357 4488;www.thevictoriaroom.com). Occupying a former garage in Darlinghurst and decorated in an unusual designer-jumble-meets-the-Raj style, it is more fun and friendly than The Loft. It also serves impressive food. Open Monday to Friday. WATER BAR 6 Cowper Street, Woolloomooloo, Sydney (00 61 2 9331 9000;www.waterbaratblue.com). The very stylish in-house bar at the Blue Sydney hotel. Open daily. WINE BANC 53 Martin Place, Sydney (00 61 2 9233 5300). The place to go when you want to impress your lover. The reason: a subterranean setting, proximity to Prada and Gucci and a 400-strong wine list. Wine Banc also supplies sophisticated bar food, cigars on tap and live jazz until late. Banc, Wine Banc's big sister located on the ground floor, serves good food. SHADY PINES SALOON (Shop 4, 256 Crown Street, www.shadypinessaloon.com). Set in trendy Darlinghurst, it is one of about 20 small bars that have opened in the city and inner suburbs recently, and its owners say this is only the start: 'Soon, the inner city, previously a small-bar wasteland, will reach a tipping point where it becomes a bar destination in its own right,' says Jason Scott, a co-owner. Open 4pm to midnight, seven days a week.
THE BAXTER INN (152-156 Clarence Street). The latest venture of the owners of Shady Pines Saloon, its set to open this winter down an alley in the central shopping district: 'We imagined a glamorous, early 20th century bar that has slowly degraded into a shifty workman's pub,' says Anton Forte, a co-owner with Jason Scott. 'A dark joint with lots of whisky, cards and personalities.' STITCH (61 York Street; www.stitchbar.com). A little bar with plush booths, excellent cocktails and a hot-dog menu, all in a basement location. 121BC (Shop 4, 50 Holt Street; www.121bc.com.au). Attached to a bottle shop in the hipster enclave of Surrey Hills, it specialises in Italian wine and bar snacks. 13B (13b Burton Street, Darlinghurst) A café by day, by night 13B becomes an intimate, candlelit space serving an inventive range of cocktails, such as the 'Don Corleone'.
What to see in Sydney
BUILDINGS AND MONUMENTS
ANZAC BRIDGE The longest cable-stayed bridge in Australia, the ANZAC Bridge was completed in 1996. It is one of Sydney's most visible landmarks, connecting Darling Harbour to the City-West Road Link. Formerly known as the Glebe Island Bridge, it was renamed on Remembrance Day in 1998 in honour of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps who served in World War I. The Australian flag flies atop the eastern pylon while the New Zealand flag adorns the western one. A bronze statue of an ANZAC soldier serves as a memorial on the western end of the bridge.
EL ALAMEIN FOUNTAIN Located at the heart of the Kings Cross area, the El Alamein fountain is a well-known meeting spot for people in Sydney. The fountain itself, designed by Robert Woodward, looks like a post-bloom dandelion. It is a war memorial to the men who fought in El Alamein during World War II.
HORIZON APARTMENT TOWER Hurstville, Sydney. Built by Harry Seidler Group in the late 1990s, Horizon Apartments is a 43-story tower with a great view over the harbour and of the Opera house. Tourists have no chance of getting onto the top floor as the house is privately owned, but the building itself is a great experience; as modern as a skyscraper can get in the city.
SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE 2 Macquarie Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9250 7111; www.sydneyoperahouse.com). The home of Opera Australia, the Sydney Theatre Company and the Sydney Symphony Orchestra, the Sydney Opera House is one of the most famous buildings in the world. Designed by Danish architect Jørn Utzon and covered in over one million white granite tiles imported from Sweden, the shell-shape house was completed in 1973. An argument made Utzon resign in the late 1960s, but his original design ideas are now at last being implemented.
CITY VIEWS
MRS MACQUARIE'S CHAIR Mrs Macquarie's Road, Sydney. Mrs Macquarie was the wife of Governor Macquarie, and legend has it that she used to sit in this part of a rock, shaped like a bench or a chair. You can see very good views over Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge from here.
SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE Connecting the central business district with the North Shore, the Harbour Bridge is one of the best spots for a good view over Sydney. Choose a clear and dry day to climb to the top of it and admire the spectacular scenery. The climb lasts about three and a half hours, during which participants follow a number of secure walkways up to the summit. You are attached to safety cables at all times. Children under 12 are not allowed up. Contact BridgeClimb for tickets and further information (00 61 2 8274 7777; www.bridgeclimb.com; email: admin@bridgeclimb.com).
SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE - THE PYLON LOOKOUT (00 61 2 9240 1100;www.pylonlookout.com.au; email: pylonlookout@bridgeclimb.com). If you are unwilling to risk the climb to the top of the bridge, or if you have children in your company, walk the 200 steps to the Pylon Lookout in the one of the bridge's pylons instead. 87 meters above mean sea level, you will be able to see most of Sydney from here. On your way up you will pass three levels where the history and construction of the bridge are exhibited.
SYDNEY TOWER Centrepoint Podium Level, 100 Market Street, Sydney. Formerly known as both the AMP and the Centrepoint, the Sydney Tower is the tallest freestanding structure in Sydney. Contact Skywalk (00 61 2 9333 9222; www.sydneyskytour.com.au) for a chance to get onto the roof, 268m over Sydney - a walk that makes the Harbour Bridge seem like a picnic. Skywalk also presides over the Oztrek, a 180-degree cinema screen showing a simulated ride in the southern hemisphere. For those who want to quietly reflect over being on top of the world, the Tower is also home to the Sydney Tower Restaurant (00 61 2 8223 3800; www.sydneytowerrestaurant.com.au; email: reservations@sydneytowerrestaurant.com). The Tower is open daily.
MUSEUMS AND ART GALLERIES
Anyone used to Europe's great public museums will find Sydney's a little underwhelming. In fact, the best museum in the city is Sydney itself, especially the areas most closely associated with European settlement: The Rocks, the Domain, Circular Quay and Macquarie Street. Sydneysiders decry the destruction of so much colonial architecture, but visitors will still find much to delight them, especially as the city is framed by a constantly changing harbour.
ART GALLERY OF NEW SOUTH WALES Art Gallery Road, The Domain, Sydney (00 61 2 9225 1878; www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au; email: info@artgallerysociety.org.au) From the moment the first fleet arrived, artists have been trying to capture Australia's remarkable light, fauna and emptiness. The full span of that enterprise is brilliantly captured at the Art Gallery of New South Wales, just a five-minute walk from Sydney's city centre. The permanent collection includes all of Australia's great colonial artists and later impressionists, as well as more recent works by Fred Williams, Sir Sidney Nolan and Brett Whiteley. The temporary exhibitions are also well worth a visit.
AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM 6 College Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9320 6000; www.austmus.gov.au). The Australian Museum in College Street is worthwhile for its fine Australian wildlife and Aboriginal collections. Established in 1827, it is known as Australia's first museum and has a good reputation in the fields of natural history and indigenous studies. Open daily.
BRETT WHITELEY STUDIO 2 Raper Street, Surry Hills, Sydney (00 61 2 9225 1881; www.brettwhiteley.org; email: brettwhiteleystudio@ag.nsw.gov.au). When Brett Whiteley died of a drug overdose in 1992, his studio was left in the state it was found, with unfinished canvases, brushes and paints strewn around. The walls are covered with graffiti, quotes and images, and the museum calls itself 'the best kept secret in Sydney'. Poetry readings are held on the fourth Sunday of every month. Open Saturday to Sunday only.
ELIZABETH BAY HOUSE 7 Onslow Avenue, Elisabeth Bay, Sydney (00 61 2 9356 3022; www.hht.net.au; email: info@hht.net.au). Built in the late 1830s for Colonial Secretary Alexander Macleay and his family, Elizabeth Bay House once stood in acres of botanical gardens. Now enclosed by ugly suburban housing, it still has the finest colonial-style staircase in Australia. Open Friday to Sunday, and on public holidays.
HYDE PARK BARRACKS MUSEUM Queens Square, Macquarie Street, Sydney (00 61 8239 2311; www.hht.net.au; email: info@hht.net.au). Hyde Park Barracks, like St James' Church designed by Australia's leading colonial architect, Thomas Greenway, focuses on early colonial history and convict life. The museum has a delightful restaurant in its courtyard. Open daily.
JUSTICE & POLICE MUSEUM Corner of Albert and Philip Streets, Circular Quay, Sydney (00 61 2 9252 1144; www.hht.net.au; email: info@hht.net.au). Although chintzed-up for tourists, the Rocks offer a wonderful insight into convict life. The seriously interested can book a guided walking tour of the Justice & Police Museum. Just off Circular Quay, the museum is funny and alarming in equal measure. The building houses some astonishing criminal artefacts alongside its convict cells, including the death mask of notorious bushranger Captain Moonlight.
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM 2 Murray Street, Darling Harbour, Sydney (00 61 2 9298 3777; www.anmm.gov.au). Children will be delighted by early surfing memorabilia, a British destroyer and an old Soviet submarine at the National Maritime Museum in Darling Harbour. Free entrance. Open daily.
NORMAN LINDSAY GALLERY AND MUSEUM 14 Norman Lindsay Crescent, Faulconbridge, Sydney (00 61 2 4751 1067; www.hermes.net.au/nlg; email: nlg@hermes.net.au). The gallery, located in the artist's former home in the Blue Mountains, has a major collection of Norman Lindsay's dreamy oils, watercolours, pen drawings and etchings. The large garden contains many of his sculptured ladies.
NUTCOTE - HOME OF MAY GIBBS 5 Wallaringa Avenue, Neutral Bay, Sydney (00 61 2 9953 4453; www.maygibbs.com.au). Nutcote is the former home of illustrator and children's author May Gibbs. The house was converted into a museum 30 years after her death and it displays a collection of personal artefacts, pictures, sketches and letters.
PARLIAMENT HOUSE - PARLIAMENT OF NEW SOUTH WALES Macquarie Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9230 2111; www.parliament.nsw.gov.au). The most important historical precinct in Sydney is located in a triangle between St James' Church, Parliament House and Hyde Park Barracks - it was the seat of power in early 19th-century Australia. With its leather benches, wood-panelled walls and framed portraits, the parliament seems like an anachronism in modern-day Australia - an allegation frequently levelled at the state MPs who lounge there.
VAUCLUSE HOUSE AND GARDENS Wentworth Avenue, Vaucluse, Sydney (00 61 2 9388 7922; www.hht.net.au; email: info@hht.net.au). One of the few surviving 19th-century harbour estates in Sydney, Vaucluse House was the home of William Charles Wentworth and his family from the 1830s and onwards. The house illustrates the life of Wentworth, the father of the Australian Constitution, his family members and servants. The estate is surrounded by a large formal garden that doubles as a jazz venue during the summer months.
PARKS
THE ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS & DOMAIN Mrs Macquarie's Road, Sydney (00 61 2 9231 8111; www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au). One of Sydney's jewels, overlooking the famous harbour and the Opera House. Originally the site of the colony's first farm, the Royal Botanic Gardens date back to 1817, making them the oldest scientific institution in Australia. Today, the gardens cover 34 hectares and include a succulent garden, a native rockery and national herbarium with more than one million plant samples, including those collected by Joseph Banks in 1770. There are free guided walks on offer, departing at 10.30am from the visitor information area. An indigenous walk called 'Cadi Jam Ora: First Encounters', led by Aboriginal guides, is also available. Booking is essential (00 61 2 9231 8134). The adjoining grassed area, the Domain, is used for recreating, picnics and outdoor concerts.
The best things to do near Sydney
BEACHES
NORTHERN BEACHES The Northern Beaches, including Palm Beach, make up the most expensive stretch of sand in Australia. Located to the north of Sydney, the area is known for some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. 20 of them are patrolled during the Australian summer, only Manly Beach is patrolled all year round. Palm Beach is known as Summer Bay in TV soap Home and Away. It also offers a good climb to the Barrenjoey Lighthouse, where the National Parks and Wildlife Service (www.npws.nsw.gov.au) holds guided tours every day.
EXCURSIONS
HUNTER VALLEY Wine lovers should leave Sydney for a day or two, and take a trip to Hunter Valley - one of Australia's best-known wine districts. There are plenty of tour operators, both local and from Sydney. Check with the official tourist information centre in Hunter Valley for further information (455 Wine Country Drive, Pokolbin; 00 61 2 4990 0900; www.winecountry.com.au; email: info@winecountry.com.au). Stay in one of the area's best hotels, such as Peppers Convent (Halls Road, Pokolbin; 00 61 2 5665 4450; www.peppers.com.au) or Tower Lodge (Halls Road, Pokolbin; 00 61 2 4998 7022; www.towerlodge.com.au; email: retreat@towerestate.com).
PARKS
ROYAL NATIONAL PARK The second oldest national park in the world (beaten only by Yellowstone), the Royal National Park has been going strong since 1879. Only 30km away from Sydney, it offers unlimited serenity, archetypal beaches and rainforest views. The walk to Burning Palms Beach should not be missed. The National Park and Wildlife Services offers a number of guided tours of the area. Visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au for further information.
SURFING First-timers should beware: riptides can take travellers swiftly out to sea. To learn how to surf, call The Australian Surfriders Association (00 61 2 5599 3800; www.surfingaustralia.com) for a reputable coach or school.
BAWLEY POINT For intermediate and advanced surfers, Bawley Point offers a suitable challenge. There are a lot of people in the water though, so it is hardly the place to go if you are looking for a one-on-one with the waves.
BYRON BAY A good spot for adventurous travellers who want to return home with some surfing skills in their baggage. Plenty of surf schools offer lessons to everyone from beginners to intermediates. It is not so good for spotting professionals - skilled surfers tend to stay out of the bay.
NEWCASTLE There are plenty of beaches to choose from in Newcastle, located just north of Sydney.
SWIMMING
WYLIE'S BATHS Neptune Street, Coogee (00 61 2 9665 2838; www.wylies.com.au; email: swimnow@wylies.com.au). In the early days of white settlement, people only swam in the natural rock pools around Sydney. Wylie's Baths, in Coogee 8km southeast of central Sydney, is the last of these beautiful and unspoilt places. The first mix-sex bath facility in Sydney, it was the training ground for Australia's first female Olympic swimmers, Mina Wylie and Fanny Durack. A favourite for generations of Sydneysiders, the old baths were fully restored in 1995 and is now listed by the National Trust. The wooden decking, immaculate changing rooms and deck chairs certainly evoke an earlier age. Visit the baths mid-week for a chance to have them all to yourself - linger over a coffee from the kiosk, read a book or succumb to a poolside massage. The elevated decks provide sweeping views north along the coast.
WALKS
BLUE MOUNTAINS Pull on a pair of walking boots and go west to the fabled Blue Mountains, a wilderness area of escarpments and bracing air, and Sydney's answer to the Lake District (and with just about as many coaches). Avoid Katoomba and base yourself at Blackheath or Mount Victoria instead. The Mountains offers one of the best bushwalks in the world, from easy challenges along cliff side tops to hard-core jungle and mountain trekking.
BONDI-COOGEE COASTAL WALK (www.waverley.nsw.gov.au). There's nothing that beats the feeling of the popular Bondi-Coogee Coastal Walk on a warm day. A 10km cliff-top track that links Sydney's two best beaches, the walk offers the glamorous Tamarama as a convenient dip stopover. Along the way you will see the stunning ocean, historic cemeteries, rock pools, Aboriginal sites, snazzy cafés and some good fish and chips in Bronte. The walk is fairly easy, but allow two hours for the round trip - unless you feel like hopping onto a local bus to take you back. If you are interested in a harbour-side walk, try the Manly Scenic Walkway, from Manly Cove to Spit Bridge. Another delight, this is a similar length to the Bondi-Coogee walk, but involves a ferry ride across the harbour.
Where to shop in Sydney
DEPARTMENT STORES
DAVID JONES Market Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9266 5544; www.davidjones.com.au). Leader of the department store pack - especially when it comes to fashion. This particular David Jones has every item ever known to attract female customers, whereas its sibling on Market Street focuses on men's interests and clothes. Take a close look at Australian designer Jayson Brunsdon's clothes before you leave.
MYER Oxford Street, Bondi Junction, Sydney (00 61 3 9661 1111; www.myer.com.au). Opened in 2004, Myer Bondi is the latest addition to the Myer department store empire. The Bondi complex is meant to be a bit more fashionable than its older siblings, in order to attract a younger crowd. Designer fashion, sport clothes, home ware, expert skincare, beauty and make up - all under one roof. The perfect destination on a cloudy day.
FASHION
While it can't compete with its London namesake, Sydney's Oxford Street is the main clothing-store thoroughfare. The road stretches away from the City area, eventually reaching Bondi Junctions - with prices escalating as you get to Woollahra. 'Oxford Street' is also the shorthand term for the fashion shops of Paddington - Collette Dinnigan, Belinda etc. Try Transvaal Avenue in Double Bay beyond Woollahra if you want something a little different. Known locally as 'Double Pay', it is Sydney's answer to Knightsbridge where Bentley-driving zillionaires can be anonymous. Big on exclusive shoe shops, jewellery stores and accessories.
AKIRA ISOGAWA 12a Queen Street, Woollahra (00 612 9361 5221; www.akira.com.au). A true talent in womenswear. Born in Japan, Isogawa moved to Sydney in 1986 and started his own label in 1994. His simple Woollahra boutique is the perfect showcase for his intricate designs, which make use of exquisite fabrics.
Discover Belinda's boutique at 39 William Street, Paddington, Sydney (contact: 00 61 3 9380 8725). This globally-recognized shop specializes in women's accessories like shoes, bags, and jewelry, each piece personally sourced by Belinda Seper during her worldwide travels.
Find unique footwear and fashionable bags at Booty, located on 111 Macleay Street (contact: 00 61 2 9380 9976). The shop offers an exclusive selection of pieces from Australian and international designers that are hand-selected for their exceptional quality and style.
Nestled on 2 Guilfoyle Avenue, Double Bay, Sydney lies Christensen Copenhagen (www.christensencopenhagen.com.au, contact: 00 61 2 9328 9755); a boutique store featuring an awe-inspiring aquarium and a striking assortment of European designer labels. Christensen Copenhagen offers affordable luxury with pieces from brands such as Tocca, Paul & Joe, Bruuns Bazaar, and Christa Davies - all carrying Australian-dollar price tags for your convenience. Fun fact: Many of these brands cost less in Australia than they do in their home countries.
Experience the uniquely Australian brand of Collette Dinnigan at 22-24 Hutchinson Street, Sydney (www.collettedinnigan.com.au, contact: 00 61 2 9361 0029). You'll step into a serene shopping space adorned with sagesilk floral curtains and whitewashed floorboards guiding your path to a charming courtyard. This flagship store is your exclusive gateway to Dinnigan's one-of-a-kind fashion pieces and bridal wear. This is also the only place where you can access and buy Dinnigan's individual creations.
LISA HO 2a-6a Queen Street, Woollahra, Sydney (00 61 2 9327 6300; www.lisaho.com.au). Lisa Ho's clothes are known worldwide, and worn by celebrities like Elle Macpherson and Sarah Michelle Gellar.
MAMBO 105 George Street, The Rocks, Sydney (00 61 2 9907 1306; www.mambo.com.au). Located not far from the Billabong flagship, Mambo is another shop moonlighting as heaven for surfer dudes and girls. Cleaver design, lots of cotton and fantastic canvas bags. A good place to take teenagers shopping.
TEA ROSE 2-12 Foveaux Street, Surry Hills, Sydney (00 61 4 1256 2202; www.tearose.com.au). Rosemary Armstrong's special-occasion women's wear is light and airy, worn by celebrities such as Cate Blanchett, Delta Goodrem and actor Claudia Karvan. In 2005, Tea Rose relocated to its present address, where the focus is on individual designs, and bridal gowns.
WAYNE COOPER Westfield Bondi Junction, 500 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction (00 61 2 9387 5855; www.waynecooper.com.au). Wayne Cooper's funky shop selling his feminine and funky clothes is located in the Westfield Bondi Junction Shopping Centre. The former law student from London's East End has been designing clothes in Australia since 1985, and has had his own label since 1996.
FOOD
GARAGE CELLARS 231 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst, Sydney (00 61 2 9380 6133). This fun store has an excellent selection of Australian wines. Formerly a garage, the owners have retained an auto-maintenance theme, with wines stacked high on the concrete floor, surrounded by coils of rope and bottles of engine oil. The staff are helpful, friendly and informed. Look out for the Wendouree, Clonakilla and Charles Melton labels.
JONES THE GROCER 68 Moncur Street, Woollahra, Sydney (00 61 2 9362 1222; www.jonesthegrocer.com). The lower-case but up-market store 'jones the grocer' in Woollahra has a superb range of cheeses, pre-cooked gourmet meals and chutneys. It can also cater for any customer whose shopping list includes mustard-seed oil, elderflower syrup, marinated feta and liqueur mascarpone.
THE FOOD HALL AT DAVID JONES 65-77 Market Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9266 5544; www.davidjones.com.au). The basement food hall at the David Jones department store is the grooviest grocery in Sydney. A fortune has been spent on its refurbishment - from which the famous oyster bar thankfully was spared. The food hall has special counters serving fresh juice, antipasti, noodles, sushi, pasta, panini and coffee. It also boasts an impressive bakery with 250 varieties of bread, and excellent seafood range, quality butchers and a large selection of wines and spirits.
HOME
DINOSAUR DESIGNS 585 Elizabeth Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9698 3500; www.dinosaurdesigns.com.au). This small store is bursting with bright, colourful glass, resin homeware and jewellery. Everything is handmade, including necklaces, bangles, key rings, plates, dishes, vases, chopsticks and sushi slabs.
ORSON & BLAKE 83-85 Queen Street, Woollahra, Sydney (00 61 2 9326 1155; www.orsonandblake.com.au). A favourite with Sydneysiders, this double-fronted, split-level store has a vast selection of well-chosen pieces for the home and wardrobe. You'll find homeware from Vietnam, Japan, Africa, Morocco and Australia downstairs, plus plenty of gift ideas.
MARKETS
SYDNEY FISH MARKET Bank Street, Pyrmont, Sydney (00 61 2 9004 1100; www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au). This industrial-sized market is by far Sydney's finest. Relax with a plate of fish and chips or sushi and a glass of wine on a sunny day, and gaze at the fishing boats. When the weather is bad, enrol at the Sydney Seafood School (00 61 2 9004 1111) to learn how to prepare chilli crab, sushi, sashimi, paella, risotto or tapas. Arrive early in the morning, at 5:30am, to attend the daily auctions.
THE FARMERS' MARKET AT FOX STUDIO Fox Studio, Moore Park, Sydney. There are many farmers' markets in Sydney every week, where you can find every type of organic produce - from fresh fruit, vegetables and Australian cheeses to native meats like kangaroo, emu and wallaby. The Fox Studio Farmers' Market is one of the best, and also the easiest to find - located at the giant Fox Studio complex near the Centennial Park. Only open Wednesday to Sunday.
SPECIALIST SHOPS
BERKELOUW BOOKS 19 Oxford Street, Paddington, Sydney (00 61 2 9360 3200; www.berkelouw.com.au). Sydney isn't known as a cultural hub, so Berkelouw Books in Paddington is a pleasant surprise to bibliophiles. Originally established in Rotterdam in 1812, the firm moved to Sydney in the 1970s and is now Australia's largest seller of rare, out-of-print and second hand books. The three-storey store is a Sydney landmark, and the opening hours are very generous - Berkelouw's doors are only closed at midnight. A second Berkelouw shop is located in Leichardt in the inner west suburbs, and the company also has a large countryside mansion in Berrima that houses its rare book collection. In all, more than 800,000 titles are available.
Reaching Sydney
Sydney is accessible via Kingsford Smith Airport, a major transportation hub located just 10 km south of the c