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What to see in Crete: perfect itinerary, most beautiful beaches and how to get there

The largest of the Greek islands is a magical place where mythology mingles with history against a backdrop of enchanting natural scenery. Crete is, in fact, the mythical birthplace of Zeus and the legendary Minoan civilisation. The palace of Knossos is the most astonishing testimony to this.

Crete thus holds the ruins of a millennial culture dating back to prehistoric times. If the architecture, cuisine and traditions then reveal Venetian and Turkish influences, the island nevertheless represents Greek civilisation par excellence.

The northern part of the island is the most touristy and developed, where hotels, luxury resorts and social life are concentrated. If, on the other hand, you want to avoid the crowds, explore the wild hinterland and move south, where you will find deserted beaches and unspoilt nature. A blanket of olive trees covers the island, which produces one of the best olive oils in Greece. Mountain ranges, among which hide traditional villages and isolated monasteries, open up to the sea through countless caves and scenic rocky gorges.

Crete, therefore, holds a unique historical, archaeological and architectural heritage as well as breathtaking natural beauty. From the Gorges of Samaria to the fabulous beaches via the famous archaeological sites of Knossos, Phaistos and Malia, the island of Crete is the ideal destination for a holiday of relaxation, culture and nature.

What to see in Crete

  • Iráklio

  • Knossos

  • Réthymno

  • Haniá

  • Samaria Gorge

  • Paleohóra

  • Gávdos

  • Kíssamos

  • Iráklio

  • Agios Nikolaos

  • Island of Spinalonga

  • Sitía

  • Ierápetra

  • Chrissi Island

  • Beaches of Crete

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Central Crete

The Arabs called it El Khandak, the Byzantines Khandakos and the Venetians Candia. It was finally the Turks who renamed it Iráklio.

A port that over time grew in importance as a centre of trade in the Mediterranean. Iráklio, also called Heráklion, is the fifth largest city in Greece and the economic and administrative centre of Crete. The city develops in a circular fashion from the ancient harbour, with the innermost circle still protected by Venetian walls. The heart is the main square, Plateia Venizelou. Iráklio retains historical buildings despite being bombed during the Second World War. On the waterfront, pay attention to the remains of Venetian fortresses and arsenals. The city is also home to several museums, tea the Archaeological Museum of Iráklio, the Historical Museum of Crete and the Natural History Museum. South of the city is the Minoan Palace of Knossos, one of the most visited archaeological sites in Greece. The Cretaquarium and the nearby water park will delight children.

Around Iráklio

  • Knossos

Knossos was the capital of the ancient Cretan civilisation, as evidenced by the legendary palace from 1900 B.C. where history is intertwined with mythology. The residence of the mythical Minotaur and King Minos was discovered in the early 1900s by British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans, who, after 35 years of work, unearthed the ruins of the ancient palace. But the result aroused much controversy, with some scholars accusing him of having undertaken the restoration driven by a romantic rather than a scientific vision. In any case, visitors will get an idea of what an ancient Minoan palace looked like. The immense palace of Knossos comprised royal quarters, rooms for public audiences, sanctuaries, treasuries and storerooms, organised around a central court. Like the other Minoan palaces, the one at Knossos housed the seat of local government.

Do not miss a visit to the legendary palace.

Not far from Knossos are other Minoan sites, less reconstructed and more authentic, which archaeology enthusiasts prefer to the palace restored by Sir Arthur Evans. These include the Minoan Palace of Mallia, the archaeological sites of Phaistos, the palace of Agía Triáda and the ruins of Górtina.

Fourteen kilometres from Iráklio is Arhánes, a traditional village that only preserves a few Minoan palace ruins. But you can stroll among restored houses, excellent taverns and shady squares.

About 46 km from Iráklio is Zarós, a rustic centre renowned for its mineral water springs, known since Minoan and Roman times. Admire the Byzantine monasteries and villages in the vicinity.

Perched on a slope of Mount Psilorítis, 37 km from Iráklio, untamed Anógia is known for its rebellious spirit and for being the birthplace of many Cretan musicians. During the Second World War it was a centre of resistance against the Germans; today it is a quiet, traditional village.

On the south coast, 11 km south-west of Phaistos, Mátala is a quiet holiday resort. But in the 1970s it was a hangout for hippies who slept in sandstone caves, which in the 1st century A.D. the Romans used for burials.

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  • Réthymno

Réthymno is the third largest town on Crete and one of the most picturesque on the island. Inhabited since the late Minoan period, the town flourished during Venetian rule (1210-1645), in fact the most important architectural structures date from that period. Small Réthymno retains traces of Venetian and Turkish culture.

As you stroll through the town, you will see picturesque palaces overlooking the sea, a 15th century fortress, flower-filled balconies, minarets and mosques. Its picturesque old town is well worth a visit.

Western Crete

  • Haniá

Haniá is the second largest town on Crete and the most charming on the island. It is a wonderful blend of Venetian and Turkish culture. Strolling through its historic centre you will see a beautiful Venetian quarter, criss-crossed by narrow alleys leading to the harbour. On the waterfront, you will see palaces overlooking the water and stately homes now converted into elegant hotels and typical restaurants. Haniá is always a lively town and is an excellent base for exploring the western side of the island, as well as a transit point for hikers heading to the Samariá Gorge.

At 16 km, the Samariá Gorge is probably the longest in Europe. Carved by river waters, the gorge winds between the peaks of the Avlimánakou and Volakías. Its inner walls can reach up to 500 metres and in spring they are tinged with a thousand colours of wild flora.

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Another village on the way to the Samariá Gorge is Hóra Sfakíon, a quiet fishing port surrounded by a moonscape, which remained free even when the entire island was conquered by Ottoman troops.

Following a winding asphalt road, from Hóra Sfakíon one arrives at Anópoli, a small town in the hinterland of Sfakiá. Ioannis Daskalogiannis, the well-known revolutionary leader who organised the first Cretan insurrection against the Ottomans in 1770, was born here.

  • Paleohóra

Located on the southern coast of the island, Paleohóra is an old fishing port where, especially in summer, traditional music still resounds. It is the capital of south-western Crete but still not very touristy.

From the ruins of the 13th century Venetian castle you will see a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains and the sea.

7 km north of Paleohóra is Azógires, a mountain village little known to tourists, which amazes with waterfalls in the woods, pools of water inhabited by Nereids, and rock caves where hermits meditated. This is why Azógires, located above the gorge of the same name, attracts yoga and transcendental meditation enthusiasts. From the village, there are also numerous hiking trails that climb among the hills.

  • Gávdos

It is an island in the Libyan Sea, 65 km south of Paleohóra, the southernmost point of Europe. Until the 1960s, Gávdos lacked aqueducts, electricity and telephone lines. Today it is a quiet island that boasts unspoilt beaches, some accessible only by sea, and small towns. It is a haven for those in search of peace. Ferries to Gávdos leave from Hóra Sfakíon and Paleohóra.

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  • Kíssamos

On the north-western coast, Kíssamos is a quiet resort town, best known to tourists taking the ferry to Kythira and the Peloponnese. Kíssamos also boasts beautiful sandy beaches.

Near Kíssamos is Falásarna, a Greek city-state dating back to the 4th century B.C., located on a long sandy coastline, one of the most beautiful on Crete.

Eastern Crete

  • Agios Nikolaos

Agios Nikolaos is a popular tourist resort with a unique location. The main town of Lasíthi, in fact, lying along the hillside descending towards the bay of Mirabello, is situated on a curved inlet connected to a small lake. The evening becomes magical when the lights of the cities are reflected on the water.

Today, many tourists choose this beautiful town in the eastern part of the island as their base, attracted by the beautiful beaches in the vicinity and the liveliness of the centre, which has an abundance of shops, trendy restaurants and cafes. Agios Nikolaos also has several museums, including the Archaeological and Folklore Museums. If you like hiking, explore the nearby lagoon of the curiously bottle-shaped Lake Voulismeni.

11 km from Agios Nikolaos, Eloúnda is the holiday resort of the wealthy, who stay in luxury resorts with a helicopter landing strip.

Kritsá is a tourist town in the mountains, known for its textiles and needlework. Arriving in Kritsá from Agios Nikolaos, you will see the church of Panagía Kerá, an example of sacred Byzantine architecture with valuable frescoes. North of Kritsá is the site of the 7th century BC Doric city of Lato. Lato, once a very powerful city, stretches over two acropolises overlooking the Gulf of Mirabéllo. Here you can see what remains of the ancient theatre and the Temple of Apollo.

  • Spinalonga Island

Just north of the Kolokytha peninsula lies the charming island of Spinalonga. Here you will see an imposing fortress, built in 1579 to defend the Bay of Eloúnda and the Gulf of Mirabéllo. It is the perfect island to spend a day among the ruins of churches, fortresses and ancient residences. Regular ferries leave for Spinalonga from Eloúnda, Pláka and Agios Nikolaos.

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  • Sitía

This is the capital of eastern Crete, a quiet seaside town that also has an airport. Ferries to the Dodecanese depart from its port.

The centre spreads over a terraced hillside and combines Venetian influences with modern elements. Sitía is a good base for exploring the nearby beaches.

Around Sitía

18 km from Sitía is the imposing Moní Toploú, which houses an 18th-century icon by Ioannis Kornaros.

Then, 24 km from Sitía is the natural palm grove of Váï. There is also a beautiful white beach here, which is very crowded in summer, but a more isolated beach can be reached by climbing a rocky promontory behind the tavern.

37 km south-east of Sitía is the Minoan site of ancient Zákros and the seaside resort of Káto Zákros. There are hiking trails in the surrounding area, including one that crosses a gorge nicknamed Death Valley, due to some rock tombs carved into its rock walls. The gorge is not far from the Minoan palace of Zákros.

  • Ierápetra

It is a port town on the south coast of the island that was crucial in the conquest of Egypt in Roman times. Ierápetra is the authentic face of Crete, unlike the tourist resorts in the north-eastern part of the island. From Ierápetra, with a boat excursion, one can reach Gaïdouronisi, the Island of Donkeys, which offers beautiful sandy beaches, a few taverns and cedars of Lebanon, the only ones in Europe.

  • Chrissi Island

It is a small island of 6 square kilometres, located a short distance from the coast and reachable in 50 minutes by ferry. Chrissi is famous for its tropical waters and beautiful, light sandy beaches.

The most famous are Belegrina and Hatzivolakas. You will feel like you are in the Caribbean.

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The beaches of Crete

Crete has over 300 beaches, many of them sandy but there is no shortage of rocky beaches. One is more beautiful than the other, so it is worth choosing a different one every day.

  • Elafonissi

It is considered the pearl of Crete and among the most beautiful in the Mediterranean. Located within a protected natural area where the loggerhead turtle Caretta caretta and the monk seal live, the beach is an enchanting expanse of white sand with pink hues, washed by calm, crystal-clear waters.

  • Balos Lagoon

One of the most photographed on the island, the tropically beautiful beach is part of a protected natural area and is characterised by the striking promontory in front of the shore, connected by a strip of sand.

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  • Paleochora

It comprises two of the most beautiful beaches on the south-west coast, the sandy Pahiá Ámmos and the pebble beach Halikiá. The sandy part is equipped and frequented by families with children.

  • Soúgia

A beautiful wild beach and junction of the most challenging hiking trails on Crete.

  • Aglos Pavlos

Undiscovered and little known, located within a bay bordered by two high cliffs, in one of which a sea cave opens up, attracting snorkellers.

  • Triopetra

The romantic beach is known for its sunsets. The name comes from the three imposing rocks that emerge from the sea and divide it into two separate beaches, the Small Triopetra, and the larger one known as Triopetra.

  • Malia

The party beach of Crete, where young people crowd until late into the night.

  • Go

Turquoise sea, fine sand, rocky and immediately deep seabed. But what makes it unique is the palm grove growing behind it, so much so that the beach is also called Palm Beach.

  • Xerocambos

An oasis of peace nestled in a valley of olive groves, Aleppo pines and wild Mediterranean scrub.

  • Myrtos

A hippy hangout in the 1960s and 1970s that still retains some of the bohemian charm of those years. It is a relaxing stretch of pebbles at the foot of Mount Díkti.

What to eat in Crete

The cuisine of Crete offers traditional Greek specialities that have been influenced by the Venetians and Turks. So in addition to the inevitable Greek salad, pita gyros and tzatziki, you will find mezedes (with black olives, anchovies, pickles, salami), taramosálata, a sauce made from fish eggs, melitzánosálata, an aubergine sauce, kolokithokeftedes, courgette, feta and mint meatballs, dakos, bruschetta with cherry tomatoes, oil and feta flakes, dolmadakia, vine leaves stuffed with rice and minced meat, and puff pastry filled with cheese, meat or spinach and vegetables.

Popular meat dishes include paidakia, lamb cutlets, ofto, meat cooked in earthenware pots with fried potatoes, and stifado, braised veal with onions and spices. Typical fish dishes are chtapodi, grilled baby octopus, kalamarakia, fried or grilled squid, mullet, kakkavia, a fish soup with lemon, onions and potatoes, ahinosalata, sea urchin salad, and grilled cuttlefish with fennel and crushed olives. Another speciality of Crete is chochlì, snails boiled in salted water with onions or fried in oil with vinegar and rosemary. Try paximadi, the traditional bread of Crete. Desserts include baklava, puff pastry with honey or syrups; kataifi, pastries filled with nuts and honey; loukoumades, sweet pancakes with honey; and kalitsounia, small cakes filled with sweet sheep's cheese. Accompanying Cretan lunches and dinners are the classic Retsina white wine and raki, a Turkish aniseed-flavoured brandy similar to Greek ouzo.

Where to stay in Crete

The island offers a wide variety of tourist facilities. You should know that the northern part of Crete is more developed while the southern part offers a more traditional type of hospitality, which attracts travellers looking for relaxation and intimacy. Those who like to feel at the centre of life are advised to stay in the capital Iráklio. Elounda, on the other hand, attracts those in search of luxury hotels and spectacular natural landscapes.

Getting to and around Crete

From Italy one can reach Crete with one of the many flights. The island has two international airports: the most important is the Nikos Kazantzakis Airport in Heraklion (HER), which is 4 kilometres from the centre of Hiraklion, while the airport in Hania (CHQ) is 15 kilometres from the city of Chania.

If you do not wish to travel by plane or prefer to bring your own car, you must board a ferry from the port of Athens.

Once in Crete, your own or rented car is the best way to get around the island on your own.

When to go to Crete: weather and events

Crete enjoys a temperate Mediterranean climate with rainy winters and hot, dry summers. The ideal time to visit the island is from April to November. In Crete, one of the most southerly points of Europe, one can bathe even in late autumn. However, considering the size of the island, the climate varies somewhat: the coastal areas and the eastern part of the island have dry summers and milder winters, while the northern and inland areas are generally wetter.

As far as events are concerned, there are numerous art, culture and entertainment festivals in Crete from May to September, which enliven towns, villages and beaches with traditional music, dances, concerts, markets and food and wine tastings. On 7 October, the feast of the monastery of the hermit monks of Gouverneto is celebrated. It is a tradition to go in procession to the cave of Our Lady of the Bear and attend mass. You can find a guide to what to do in Crete in one week here and an itinerary for discovering Crete in a fortnight here.

Map and map

  • Greece